Rubattino’s in Renton

Renton is a suburb of Seattle, with about 100,000 residents in the 2020 census. It’s not as rich and snooty as Bellevue, not as working class as Kent and Auburn.

I grew up nearby, and knew the town well fifty years ago, but it’s not what it was. At least four of downtown Renton’s major stand-alone businesses from my era have gone defunct, and each has become a shabby-looking church.

A three-bus daily parlay takes me from West Seattle to downtown Renton each morning, and tootling along the city’s main drag, 3rd Street, there’s… well, not a lot to be seen.

Two square blocks of downtown Renton are what’s called the Renton Transit Center, where numerous bus routes converge. In theory this makes for easy transfers, but instead it’s a pain in the ass, another example of public transit designed by people who don’t ride public transit. See, the different routes all stop at different corners and different streets, so transferring from one bus to another involves walking a block or two. This morning, as often happens, the bus I needed to catch pulled away as I was walking the block toward its stop.

That bus runs only twice hourly, so I suddenly had time to kill, and decided to stroll 3rd Street. Maybe there’d be a coffee shop I hadn’t noticed from the bus window every morning, or a quirky convenience store, or a gun shop, and indeed, I found all three (Boon Boona Coffee, Rain City Market, Pinto Guns). My surprise, though, was Rubattino’s Diner.

It’s easy to miss. Peeking through a glass door mostly covered with flyers, I saw vinyl stools stretched along a long counter, the seats alternating between casually garish blue and red. Built circa 2000 would’ve been my guess, but a sign out front said, “Since 1917,” which decided everything. I wasn’t even hungry, but suddenly it was time for breakfast.

Soon as I’d passed through the door, a man’s voice called out cheerily, “Howdy, sit anywhere.” My preference is always the counter, so I saddled a blue stool facing a dark, empty bar. Huh? Why am I looking into a bar? Needed a long moment to make sense of the scene:

Sitting at the counter, you’re facing a wall that isn’t there, and looking into the business next door. It’s a tavern that’s being remodeled, but the wall isn’t temporarily missing; it’s gone by design. Well, there’s perhaps a yard of wall, but after that, open air and The Owl Room.

Oh, and I figured out later that it’s The Owl Room that’s been in business since 1917. Rubattino’s is much younger, probably circa 2000.

15 seats line the long counter, all facing into the bar. Ten booths are along the other long wall, the wall that’s there. The waiter, same guy who’d said to sit anywhere, offered coffee and poured, and it was sour java indeed, but that’s not a major minus. My favorite diner, Mrs Rigby’s, has lousy coffee some mornings, but the rest of the experience makes up for it.

The décor is old album covers tacked on the wall — Johnny Horton, Jim Nabors, Conway Twitty, the Bay City Rollers, The Ventures, and more. Mid-level rock’n’roll was playing, 1960s and ’70s stuff from when rock’n’roll existed. The tunes were coming from a radio, so ads intruded every few minutes.

The cook and kitchen are so far removed, I never saw either. The menu is standard diner fare. I ordered a vegetarian omelet.

Would’ve preferred a vegan omelet, but omelets tend to have cheese and eggs. No worries; I’m vegan at home, but vegetarian on the road, because limiting myself to vegan options at restaurants would basically eliminate restaurants.

My veggie omelet was heavy on spinach, which is not my vegetable of choice, but it also had green and red bell pepper slices, onions, mushrooms, and yellow & white cheese that stretched out warmly with every forkful. There were no perceptible tomatoes, and I approve — tomatoes have been genetically engineered to offer no flavor, only the color red, and the bell peppers handled that chore. The eggs, cheese, and veggies were more layered than unified, but the omelet was tasty. (My first eggs and cheese of the month.)

Offered my choice of shredded hash browns or country-style, I’d gone with the latter. Usually that means diced squares of potato, but Rubattino’s serves slices, like potato chips but fried on the grill instead of in a vat of oil. It was un-ordinary, very good, and a generous quantity, too.

I’d asked for an English muffin, and it was apparently steamed instead of toasted. An interesting choice and a new experience, the muffin was rubbery and squishy, but edible with strawberry jam. Also on the plate was a thick, juicy slice of orange, and a small pile of cantaloupe chunks.

Service was courteous, efficient. Coffee refills were offered often, and improved on that disappointing first cup. Other than the potatoes, the meal wasn’t anything special, but it was adequate, and nothing was barfed up afterwards. The tab was $21-something, which seems reasonable for these unreasonable times.

I wouldn’t hesitate to return to Rubattino’s, and it’s nice to know there’s a decent diner in downtown Renton. Also, a coffee shop, a quirky convenience store, and a gun shop. Despite all the churches, downtown Renton might be worth getting off the bus.

Rubattino’s Diner
Food & drink: good.
Price: good.
Service: good.
Transit: #101, #105, #106, #107, #148, #153, #160, #240, #560, #566, #907, RapidRide #F.
Verdict: YES.

5/17/2026

Cheap Seattle

itsdougholland.com
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11 responses to “Rubattino’s in Renton”

  1. Tom Avatar
    Tom

    Another fun read. Thanks!

    If this was a column in the Stranger or a similar weekly, it’d be main reason I would pick one up. It brings out the charector of the place, what care they put in their food and really whether it’d be a place I’d like to drop by. Almost empty retro diner with attentive coffee refills. Sign me up!

  2. Doug Holland Avatar

    Thanks, Tom. I miss The Stranger on paper (it’s still publishing online), and even Seattle Weekly.

    Still wondering how that cutaway works, and I’m tempted to visit the bar some night, to see. There doesn’t seem to be any door that allows walking between the two businesses, but my guess (after thinking about it too long, too much) is that they share a kitchen, and can pass dishes through?

  3. eel paradise Avatar
    eel paradise

    I hitched up to Seattle around ’81, slept out the night before Mt St Helens blew her top for the second time,
    somehow met an Iranian woman named Parvin from Renton and we drove around some…(caught a Mariners game at the Kingdome)…you’ve heard of a joyride, that was a joy hitch…

    1. Doug Holland Avatar

      The Kingdome was better than Seattle’s current baseball park, for my purposes at least.

  4. Tom Avatar
    Tom

    Didn’t know that about the Stranger, that’s too bad. I’m terribly out of touch so I Imagine it also hit Portland’s sister paper The Mercury.
    My larger point was that any regional mag, with insight, would love your reviews. I really don’t know how comfortable you would be about that, but I get the sense that if it could promote the hidden spots you’ve seen, you’d be into it.

    1. Doug Holland Avatar

      I have always been self-published, with little interest in whatever it takes to earn an editor’s approval. The rare pieces I’ve submitted — including one to The Stranger — earned not even a rejection letter.

      Once in a great while, I hear from someone that they’ve appreciated something I wrote here, and that’s a great feeling. It’s enough.

    2. granville Avatar
      granville

      Both the Stranger and The Mercury actually have the same owner now, which also bought the Chicago Reader out of its usual state (for the last decade at least) of imminent bankruptcy. From what I gather they exist largely as a vehicle to sell tickets to local shows (another enterprise owned by the same entity that owns the papers).

      I think they all are still on paper, actually, the Reader immediately switched from weekly to monthly and the Mercury is published “11 times per year.” I’m not sure about the Stranger, they seem to offer print subscriptions but don’t say how often they publish.

      1. Doug Holland Avatar

        Quarterly. And The Stranger is still a good read, but it never feels as vital as a good alt-weekly. Also, in their defense, though selling tickets is the company’s primary business, The Stranger on paper and the website never feel like their purpose is selling tickets.

        1. granville Avatar
          granville

          I’ve felt the same way, it’s so dull and joyless. One of my theories is that there has long been a tradition of covering the weirdness of urban life, and the weird people in it, and that whole tradition is just about gone now:

          https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fl%C3%A2neur

          Alt-weeklies were really good at writing about the unusual world created by cities, the downtown preacher with a small speaker who warns all the people that smoking will get them thrown in the lake of fire or the guy who you see who wears 3 hats and carries a crucifix on his back, who every local is like “Oh that’s Marty, the guy with 3 hats who carries a crucifix on his back. He’s great.” For matters of taste, they really don’t do this anymore. (And maybe because cities are all kind of becoming the same.) Ultimately an alt-weekly has just become a normal metro daily that covers more bad music and boring art.

          Agree with Tom, though, your blog is kind of a Seattle alt-weekly. You cover local eats rather than the same boring places that are again almost all the same everywhere in America now, and your sketches of the People of Public Transportation prove that you can write about unusual people without cruelty or denying their humanity.

          1. Doug Holland Avatar

            That’s a new word to me, and it’s me — I’m a flâneur, or at least I have flâneuist tendencies.

            Hard to tell whether you’re exactly right or whether we’re idealizing the memory of alt-weeklies, but that’s my memory, too. Maybe there weren’t great stories of urban reality in every issue, there were enough of them to notice that they’re not there any more.

            My favorite was the San Francisco Bay Guardian. Roused a lot of rabble, they did. Isthmus in Madison was pretty good. Here in Seattle, The Weekly was good back in the ’80s, but The Stranger hit its peak before I moved back.

  5. Doug Holland Avatar

    When the #560 or RapidRide #F brings me to Renton Transit Center, I have to walk a block and a half to catch my connecting bus to Katrina’s house. Sometimes my bus leaves while I’m walking toward it, and since it only runs twice-hourly, I have half an hour to kill. When that happens, I’ll often walk to Rubattino’s, and I keep regretting it, so I want to change my assessment from YES to MAYBE.

    The omelet is always OK to good, but something’s weird or wrong with the breakfast experience, every time. “Something’s going to be weird” ought to be their motto.

    In my four breakfasts there, something’s smelled funky twice, the potato-chip-style hash browns have been severely undercooked twice, and once the waitress apologized that there was no coffee and promised to brew a pot and bring a cup, but she didn’t make the coffee until I reminded her a few minutes later, and she forgot about me and the coffee after it was brewed.

    Yesterday I missed my bus, so like the damned fool I am I walked to Rubattino’s. Only two other customers were there, already eating, and nobody else came in, so the place was not exactly busy. Still, it was five minutes before a waitress said hello and handed me a menu. From ordering until the omelet’s arrival took 23 minutes.

    Most strangely, complete silence filled the restaurant (pleasantly) until without warning so-so rock’n’roll was played at an uncomfortably loud volume, but only one song: “Wheel in the Sky,” by Journey. After the song, just as too-loud, a recorded voice said, “Hi, I’m so-and-so from the band Journey,” and launched into an ad for some music device or service I’ll never use. After that, no more music or ads played, and the only sound was again the silverware quietly clattering against plates.

    Something else I’ve noticed (and the real root of the problem) is that different workers are working every time I’ve been in — they’re always age 16-25 or so, and it always seems to be their first shift, but there’s no experienced worker showing them how it’s done. Is there no-one on staff who’s worked there before today, every day?

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